Wu Gencheng, more commonly known by his nickname A Da, is one of the most famous street food vendors in Shanghai, known for his handmade spring onion pancakes.

A Da is the oldest child in his family and has a hunchback, hence his nickname, which means ‘big’ in Chinese.

A Da begins to knead dough around 3am every day, a time when most of people are still asleep. He finishes all his prep work before 5am. His little stall on No. 2, Lane 159 of Maoming Road S is scheduled to open for business at 6am.